The desserts at Vixen's Wedding are devilishly complex and decidedly East-meets-West, like this rum-spiked crème brulee, which has an Indian matta rice base, a torched topping of the seductive dark palm sugar called jaggery, and fresh mango, all set off by a mango sorbet on the side. The pretty dusting of red? That’s beet powder.
Photograph by Jody Horton
Austin chefs Todd Duplechan and Jessica Maher have a special love for Goan cuisine. The tiny former colony of Portugal on India’s west coast is the inspiration behind their latest restaurant, the improbably named Vixen’s Wedding. Today, the husband-and-wife duo team behind dreamy Lenoir are throwing open the doors to a high-ceilinged venue in the new Arrive East Austin Hotel that will showcase their imaginative take on Goan cuisine. “I worked at Tabla in New York with chef Floyd Cardoz, whose family was from Goa,” says Duplechan. “And I became fascinated with the food. The two cultures have blended over the centuries—I think of it as a great mashup of the Iberian Peninsula and the Indian subcontinent.” In crafting the menu, he did not want to replicate what’s already available in Austin. Duplechan says: “Indian cuisine can be rich, with lots of sauces and stews. But I find that Goan cuisine has a nice variety of separate meat and fowl and shellfish; the spices are pungent and wonderful. I thought the Texas palate would really get it.” (Editor’s Note: This introduction was changed after publication.)
Jessica Maher and Todd Duplechan take a quick break days before opening Vixen's Wedding. Of the mural behind them, Maher says: “I wanted the restaurant’s name to evoke water, for many reasons. I found that an old term for a sunshower—or rain while the sun is shining—is a ‘vixen’s wedding.’ Then our graphic designer, Blair Richardson, discovered a Brazilian parable about a fox and a wolf who were star-crossed lovers; he translated it into this whimsical piece of art.”
Photograph by Jody Horton
The restaurant's pork ribs vindaloo are served with coconut salad and pickles. The menu is divided into three playful sections (not including desserts and sides): "Small," "Just Right," and "Bring a Friend." (The ribs can be found under "Just Right.")
Photograph by Jody Horton
“Our designer, Chris McCray, loves to come up with an idea and have local folks create it,” says Duplechan. These wax canvas lanterns were made by Austin artist Adele Hauser. “Goa is tropical, with lush green plants, bright colors, and light,” he adds, “and these really evoke the mood.”
Photograph by Jody Horton
Most cuisines have a favorite bun. In Indian cuisine, idli fill that role. These puffy steamed mini-buns, usually made from a rice- and lentil-flour batter, are especially popular for breakfast, often served with curry. At Vixen’s Wedding, they’ll be griddle-toasted and stuffed with fillings or served with a condiment like coconut cilantro chutney.
Photograph by Jody Horton
The restaurant’s bar, which offers food service as well, has about twenty seats; happy hour is from 5 to 6:30 p.m. In addition, there is a Cajun-inspired outdoor space called Lefty’s Brick Bar with colorful lawn chairs and a beer-garden feel. A nod to Duplechan’s childhood, it offers a line-up of “bahn-boys,” with the likes of red curry chicken and raclette cheese, and snacks such as a bowl of cracklins with green curry.
Photograph by Jody Horton
In the sixteenth century, Portuguese traders gathered bushels of hot, bright-red piri piri peppers in the Caribbean and transported them to their colonies in Africa. There, the small, stubby chiles flourished and were incorporated into seasonings and sauces. Those ultimately made their way to Portugal’s Indian colony, Goa. Piri-piri chicken, served with condiments, is the happy result.
Photograph by Jody Horton
Maher describes Vixen’s Wedding’s drink menu as “playful, tropical cocktails" adding: "Personally, if pineapple and passion fruit are involved, I’m ordering it.” There will be a wide range of drinks of all types, including classics like a daiquiri, with white rum, lime, pineapple, cucumber, and coconut water.
Photograph by Jody Horton
“Of course, we will have traditional flatbreads,” says Duplechan, “but I’m also really excited about our Indian-spiced sourdoughs, because they show that Goan cuisine is such a blend of European and Indian traditions. This one has turmeric, orange blossom, fennel, and coriander. The wheat comes from Barton Springs Mill [in Dripping Springs]."
Photograph by Jody Horton
In India, the Hindi word “thali”—pronounced “tah-lee”—means a large plate or tray, and by extension refers to a style of communal eating, with a main course surrounded by condiments in small bowls (called katori). Although not a conventional thali, the grouping here still honors its convivial spirit.
Photograph by Jody Horton
This colorful concoction contains brandy, hibiscus, curacao, lemon, and cherry, served over crushed ice.
Photograph by Jody Horton
Ceviche isn’t Indian, of course, but Mexico's ubiquitous raw seafood cocktail takes beautifully to an Indian treatment, including a lime marinade, pickled mango, slices of avocado, and peanuts. It’s presently made with almaco, a meaty fish related to yellowtail and amberjack, but other fish might be substituted seasonally.
Photograph by Jody Horton
The exterior of Vixen's Wedding, which is located at the 83-room Arrive East Austin Hotel. The restaurant will serve dinner from 5 to 10 p.m. Sunday through Wednesday and 5 to 11 p.m. Thursday through Saturday.
